Food Review: Shenoy's Is Taking GSB (Gaud Saraswat Brahmins) Cuisine To A Whole New Level – You Won't Want To Miss This

What used to be a canteen for the workers in the industrial estate in Gandhi Nagar, Worli, since 1967, is now a fine dine restaurant that boasts of serving authentic GSB (Gaud Saraswat Brahmins) cuisine. Dream of Vikram Shenoy, Shenoy’s is a legacy of Vikram’s grandfather that he has happily taken over. Trained at the Taj Group, this young chef exudes energy that’s infectious.

GSB cuisine changes region to region like Maharashtrian or any other state’s cuisine. Shenoy’s offers traditional Manglorean GSB food — sometimes with a twist. “Idea is to make our food popular on a global level!” Vikram says with a smile.

Gojju Chicken with Malabari Disks

“To serve GSB food to GSB, that’s a challenge!” he quips when he hears that am I GSB as well. He suggests that I should try the other things on the menu as well, and not just GSB food. I leave everything to him, and he gladly accepts the challenge. “I have used our traditional masalas to give the regular dishes a twist. Therefore, you will see tikka with a twist and a gojju with a twist,” Vikram gives me a heads up.

We start with my favourite — Surna Kaap. Slices of yam marinated, dipped in semolina and shallow fried to perfection. The twist is the dip that’s also drizzled on the kaap — bedgi chilli and mayo mix! The combo enhances the kaap taste. Bedgi red chilli, which is an essential of every GSB household, is used by Vikram quite liberally in the cuisine at Shenoy’s. The most interesting use is for his version of paneer tikka, the Byadgi Kairi Paneer — paneer marinated in bedgi chilli served with aam panna concentrate as dip and drizzle.

Coffee Coke Float Ammas Mushroom Masala

Vikram recommends the Truffle Mushroom Cheddar Naan Bomb and Pulled Rogan Josh Tacos. The soft tacos are served with mildly spiced rogan to complement the boneless, well-cooked and tasty meat in the tacos. Drizzle in on your tacos or dip your taco in it for a flavourful bite. The naan bombs have the delicate aroma and flavour of truffle oil, which thankfully doesn’t overpower. Peri Peri Kela Bhaji (raw banana fritters), Vikram’s favourite, is served with a delectable hung curd dip. The dip is so delicious that one can keep licking it till the next course comes to your table.

Chicken Ghee Roast Panpolo Crisp is a unique starter that presents mains as appetizer. Mini panpolo (Manglorean dosa that has coconut in the batter) is generously topped with spicy, chicken ghee roast with ‘homemade’ masala and flavour. Difficult to eat in one bite but do try. The textures and spices take your palate on a delicious trip.  Gojju Chicken with Malabari Disks is another interesting starter that presents traditional gojju on a malabar paratha disk with curry oil drizzle.

I seriously recommend the Kokum Masala Soda at this stage to help digest the starters. It goes well with the cuisine. A coffee person can go for Filter Coffee Coke Float. They also serve the traditional Panakam - drink made from jaggery, dry ginger powder, pinch of black pepper powder. 

Peri Peri Kela Bhajji Ghee Roast on Panpolo

Currently, the main course doesn’t have any GSB dishes, only the thalis. “But by end of the month, we will have them on ala carte menu as well with a few new ones,” informs Vikram. He is kind enough to give me a taster of Tingalvare Hooman, though I chose the Raja Phanna Upkari Thali. Raja, Manglorean name for mackerel, is cooked in a traditional Manglorean curry — phanna upkari — that uses browned onion as a base. For the hooman, tingalvare — white navy beans — are cooked in another traditional way. Both curries are delicious. Credit goes to the authentic cooking ingredients and style that Vikram has inherited and passed on to his team.

The rice section has an interesting variety. Most of the biryanis or pulaos are Vikram’s mother’s creations. Masoor Coconut Rice is good to eat by itself and as a company to any of the curries. I suggesst eat it without any add-ons. Subtle flavours that satiate you.

Panakam

My favourite remains to be my comfort food at home — ukade rice and dali toy. It’s like home. A traditional preparation of dal and red rice, which goes well with any fritters or fried fish. Try it with their fried prawns — Sungat Fry.

I suggest the Black Sesame Crème Brulee for dessert. The crunch of the sesame and the nutty bite add the much-needed texture to the otherwise smooth crème brulee. It is awesome!

(Average cost for two: ₹ 2,000)

Where: Shenoy's,Gandhi Nagar, Worli, Mumbai