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'I never wore trousers, and I never will': A Bolivian woman's fight against sexism in the mountains

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Cecilia Llusco , aged 39, is one of Bolivia ’s first female indigenous mountain climbers and is famous for her unique approach to climbing. She is known for climbing in her traditional Aymara pollera—a colourful skirt that she believes does not slow her down. In 2015, she and a group of ten other women, called the " cholitas escaladoras " (the climbing cholitas), reached the top of Huayna Potosí , challenging stereotypes along the way.

The term "cholita," which once had negative meanings, has been reclaimed by Indigenous Aymara women. For Llusco, climbing is not just about reaching the summit; it's about enjoying the journey. “I have never worn trousers to go up a mountain and I never will. Our polleras don’t impede us,” she says of the traditional Aymara garment.

A life in the mountains
Llusco met her partner, Eloy, a mountain guide, 23 years ago. Together, they have a son and a daughter, who is also a climber. They live in El Alto, a city near La Paz, and Llusco is considering getting married at the top of Huayna Potosí, wearing a white pollera.

Fighting against discrimination
Being a woman in Bolivia is not easy, and Llusco has faced sexism and discrimination throughout her career. Despite this, she finds strength in the support of her fellow cholitas escaladoras. "It has been very difficult to face the sexism. We have stumbled because we are women who wear polleras" she says.

Overcoming challenges and dreaming big
Despite the challenges, Llusco continues to climb. She still rents most of her equipment because she can’t afford to buy her own. The tourism industry in Bolivia, which is slowly recovering after the pandemic, is vital to the country’s economy. Llusco’s work is seasonal, and during the climbing season from May to November, she leads groups up Huayna Potosí. She often climbs with her sister, and they carry their belongings wrapped in colourful fabric.

Breaking into the tourism industry
Llusco has been working as a guide for about six years, but her journey into tourism started when she was just eight. She would accompany her father, a trekking guide, and dreamed of one day reaching the top of Huayna Potosí. However, her path has not been easy due to the sexism she faced. "We stumbled because we are women in polleras," she shares, but this didn’t stop her.

A Love for nature and climbing
Huayna Potosí holds a special place in Llusco’s heart. "I feel free, happy, and connected to nature when I’m there," she says. The mountain is sacred to the Aymara people, and climbers often offer coca leaves and alcohol as a sign of respect before climbing. This peak, located near La Paz, Bolivia's capital, is a popular destination for tourists. While it’s known as one of the easier climbs above 6,000 metres, the high altitude can still pose challenges.
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